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On our blogs you will find our Tax Sherpa Stories series as well as additional posts covering all manner of tax topics. Some items are timely as there are multiple tax filing dates throughout the year and some items are important larger concepts.

Congress quietly added a new deduction as part of the One Big Beautiful Bill Act, passed on July 4, 2025: a deduction for interest paid on certain new car loans.
On the surface, that sounds simple. In reality, it’s a tightly controlled incentive with income limits, phaseouts, and sourcing rules that will knock a lot of people out without them realizing it.
I’m writing this on December 12, 2025, which also matters. There are a lot of car salespeople pushing the deduction as a benefit of buying a new car right now.
Let’s walk through what the deduction actually is, who qualifies, and—just as important—when you should not let it influence your behavior.
2025 New Car Loan Interest Deduction Explained
What Is the New Car Loan Interest Deduction?
Where the Deduction Appears on Your Tax Return
Qualification Rules: The Gates You Have to Get Through
2. Final Assembly Must Take Place in the United States
3. The Loan Must Be a Qualified Auto Loan
Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI) Limits and Phaseouts
Car Loan Interest Deduction Calculator
How Much Is This Deduction Actually Worth?
End-of-Year Timing: Don’t Let the Tax Tail Wag the Purchasing Dog
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is this a tax credit or a tax deduction?
Do I have to itemize deductions to claim this?
What if I refinance my car loan?
Does the brand of the car matter?
How do I verify where the car was assembled?
Is there a limit to how much interest I can deduct?
What income does the IRS use for the phaseout?
If I’m over the income limit, can I still claim part of the deduction?
What if I use the car partly for business?
This new provision allows taxpayers to deduct interest paid on a qualified auto loan, provided the vehicle and the taxpayer meet a specific set of rules.
A few high-level points up front:
This is a deduction, not a credit
It applies only to interest, not principal
It is claimed on the new Schedule 1-A of the Form 1040
You do not need to itemize deductions to claim it
Because it reduces income rather than tax directly, the value of the deduction depends heavily on your tax bracket and whether you’re subject to the income phaseout.
The deduction is taken on Schedule 1-A, which is the IRS has drafted to calculate the new senior tax deduction, no tax on tips, no tax on overtime, and no tax on new car loan interest that were created by the OB3 bill.
That placement matters for two reasons:
It means the deduction is available even if you take the standard deduction
It makes income-based phaseouts easier to enforce
In practical terms, if your tax software (or your tax preparer) doesn’t explicitly ask about this deduction, it’s easy to miss.
This deduction has three main gatekeepers. Miss any one of them and the deduction disappears.
Used vehicles do not qualify
Refinanced loans on older vehicles do not qualify
The purchase must meet the bill’s “new vehicle” definition
This deduction is clearly designed to incentivize new car sales, not to reward refinancing or used-car purchases.
This is where a lot of people will make incorrect assumptions.
Brand name does not matter.
Final assembly location does.
Some vehicles sold under foreign brands qualify. Some vehicles sold under American brands do not.
To check this, you can use the official NHTSA VIN Decoder, which allows you to enter:
The vehicle identification number (VIN)
The model year
It will tell you where final assembly took place.
VIN Decoder: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/
If final assembly was not in the U.S., the deduction is not available, full stop.
The deduction applies to interest on a qualified purchase loan tied to the vehicle.
As of this writing, we expect Treasury and IRS guidance to further clarify edge cases such as:
Refinancing shortly after purchase
Dealer-paid interest buy-downs
Related-party financing
Until that guidance is finalized, conservative treatment is warranted.
This is where many taxpayers will quietly fall out of eligibility.
The deduction is subject to Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI) limits that vary by filing status. Once your income exceeds the threshold for your filing status, the deduction begins to phase out, eventually disappearing entirely.
Conceptually, the structure works like this:
Below the threshold: full deduction
Inside the phaseout range: partial deduction
Above the phaseout range: no deduction
The exact thresholds and ranges depend on your filing status, and they matter far more than the sticker price of the car.
Married-filing-joint filers: MAGI cap is $200k and phases out at $250k
All other filers: MAGI cap is $100k and phases out at $150k
This is a classic Congressional move: advertise a broadly appealing deduction, then narrow it with income limits.
For most taxpayers, the value of this deduction will be modest.
Why?
It applies only to interest, not the full loan payment
Auto loan interest is front-loaded, so later years matter less
Income phaseouts often reduce or eliminate the benefit
In many cases, we’re talking about hundreds to about two thousand dollars per year. That’s real money but it’s certainly not enough to justify a bad purchase decision.
People who qualify for this deduction will mostly be in the 22% bracket. So if your qualifying car loan interest is $7,000, the tax impact will be $1,540.
Because I’m writing this in mid-December, it’s worth addressing the elephant in the room.
Any time a new deduction shows up near year-end, people feel pressure to act:
“If I buy before December 31, I get the tax break.”
That isn’t wrong, but it can be expensive.
If you were already planning to buy a new car, the financing makes sense, and the vehicle fits your life, then the deduction is a nice bonus. Take it.
But using a tax deduction to justify a major purchase is almost always backwards.
A car is still a depreciating asset. This deduction doesn’t change that. It doesn’t touch principal, and it doesn’t come close to offsetting the cost of buying a vehicle you didn’t actually need.
Spending $40,000 to $60,000 to save a few hundred dollars in taxes is not tax planning, it’s rationalization.
This is one of those moments where the rule applies cleanly: don’t let the tax tail wag the purchasing dog. Good financial decisions come first. Tax incentives follow—never the other way around.
If the vehicle is used partly for business, additional complexity enters the picture:
Allocation between personal and business use
Interaction with Schedule C or S-Corporation rules
Potential limitations on double-dipping deductions
Until we have clear IRS guidance on how this new deduction interacts with existing business vehicle rules, conservative treatment is advised.
This new car loan interest deduction is real—but it’s narrow, income-limited, and often overstated in casual conversations.
If you:
Were already buying a new car
Qualify under the income limits
Confirm U.S. final assembly
Have meaningful interest expense
Then the deduction is worth taking.
Just don’t let a modest tax benefit talk you into a purchase that doesn’t make sense on its own. Congress writes incentives to steer behavior. Your job is to decide whether the behavior actually serves you.
It’s a tax deduction, not a credit.
That means it reduces your taxable income, not your tax bill dollar-for-dollar. The actual value depends on your marginal tax rate and whether you’re subject to the income phaseout.
No.
This deduction is claimed on Schedule 1-A, not Schedule A. You can take it even if you use the standard deduction.
No.
The vehicle must be new. Used vehicles do not qualify, even if they’re “new to you.”
As of now, refinancing an existing loan generally does not qualify.
The deduction is intended for interest on a qualified purchase loan tied to a new vehicle. We expect IRS guidance to further clarify edge cases, but refinancing purely to generate deductible interest is unlikely to be allowed.
No.
The final assembly location matters not the brand.
Some vehicles sold by foreign manufacturers qualify. Some vehicles sold by American manufacturers do not.
You can use the official NHTSA VIN Decoder.
You’ll need:
The vehicle identification number (VIN)
The model year
The tool will show the final assembly location.
VIN Decoder: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/
If final assembly was not in the United States, the deduction is not available.
The practical limit comes from:
The amount of interest you actually paid
The income phaseout based on your filing status
Even if your loan generates significant interest, the deduction may be reduced or eliminated once your income exceeds the applicable MAGI range.
The phaseout is based on Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI), not just AGI.
MAGI adds certain items back to AGI like social security income, depending on your situation. This is a common area where taxpayers assume they qualify and later find out they don’t.
Possibly.
If your income falls within the phaseout range, you may be eligible for a partial deduction. Once you exceed the top of the range for your filing status, the deduction goes to zero.
No.
This deduction applies to interest paid on a loan. Lease payments are not interest on a purchase loan and do not qualify.
That adds complexity.
You may need to:
Allocate interest between personal and business use
Coordinate this deduction with Schedule C or S-Corporation vehicle rules
Avoid double-dipping on deductions
Until the IRS issues clear guidance on how this deduction interacts with business vehicle treatment, conservative allocation is recommended.
Almost never.
For most taxpayers, the tax savings will be modest, often measured in hundreds of dollars per year. That’s not enough to justify a large, last-minute purchase.
If you were already buying the car, fine, take the deduction. But don’t let the tax tail wag the purchasing dog.
As of now, the deduction applies for tax years 2025 through 2028.
If you’re making a major financial decision, assume the tax benefit is temporary, not permanent.
Q:
Filing your taxes each year is a necessary task, but it is always backwards looking. Tax advisory works with you throughout the year to make sure that you are on the right track when it comes to your taxes and have strategies in place to save money now.
Q:
Tax write-offs, also known as tax deductions, are expenses that a business incurs that can be subtracted from its revenue to reduce the amount of taxable income. Common write-offs include office supplies, mileage, rent for a business location, and advertising expenses, among many others. By writing off legitimate business expenses, you can significantly reduce your taxable income, which can lead to a lower tax bill. It's essential, however, to maintain proper records and ensure that the expenses are truly business-related.
Q:
A tax deduction reduces the amount of your income that is subject to taxation, which in turn can lower your tax liability. Common deductions include expenses like mortgage interest, student loan interest, and business expenses. A tax credit, on the other hand, is a direct reduction of your tax bill. This means if you owe $1,000 in taxes and have a $200 tax credit, your tax due would be reduced to $800. Some popular credits include the Child Tax Credit, the Earned Income Tax Credit, and credits for energy-efficient home improvements.
Q:
Yes, there are significant tax differences between hiring an employee and an independent contractor. When you hire an employee, you're responsible for withholding federal and possibly state income taxes, Social Security, and Medicare taxes from their paychecks. You also typically pay unemployment taxes on wages paid to employees. Independent contractors, on the other hand, are responsible for their own taxes. As a business owner, you'd provide them with a Form 1099-NEC (if you pay them $600 or more during the year) instead of a W-2, and they would be responsible for their own self-employment taxes. It's important to correctly classify your workers, as misclassifying can lead to penalties.
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